Showing posts with label Bahamas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bahamas. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

On sequels

I had mixed emotions of returning to SE Asia and later Bimini’s Sharklab this past winter.  Eight months since I left from Singapore via Manila and I was back in Singapore on my way to Bali.  Like Manila, you aim to leave Bali as soon as possible.  If the bedbugs in Sanur don’t get you, the lying-to-you-face-and-smiling-about-it locals will.  Spectacular diving made up for the Philippines and Indonesia’s lackluster food – compared to Vietnam and Malaysia’s street eats – while men throughout the region with the same leery lineage had me second guessing.

Returning to two areas I’d previously enjoyed, I was reminded of Heraclitus of Ephesus that you can never step into the same river.  Amid my transient lifestyle with supporting tattered, water stained passport and scattering of friends, family and lovers around the globe I was surprised that I’d purposefully chosen to visit the same place twice.  

Feeling SE Asia’s pull through the previous summer coupled with the dissatisfaction I’d neglected significant pieces and places and feeling a homesickness for a place that wasn’t my home, I observed a rare place fidelity.  The diving kept me entertained as I climbed into Robyn’s wetsuit and followed her fin kicks all over Indonesia, the food in Thailand, Malaysia and Vietnam made my tummy smile but I didn’t clichély “return for the people.”  

Quite the opposite.  There were plenty of people who legitimately could have held me in Canada.  A budding relationship with an are-you-real? man; a returning-from-where-I-wanted-to-go cousin; a previously incarcerated brother desperate to fall into a support net; girlfriends getting engaged, having second children, looking to sell their first home; a mother who, like me, cries at each parting.  

Lonely Planet co-founder Tony Wheeler’s “all you've got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over” bounce through my head as I contemplate where I don’t know I’m going against what, where and who I’ve (temporarily) left behind.  

Attempts to adequately stay in touch are in place but exchanged emails and unreliable postcards home cannot rival the former ease of daily life.  Even if I chose to dive into the time consuming and frustrating Skype, all would continue to be a tease of the former intimacy enjoyed amongst friends and family.
 
Friend and fellow wanderer, Steph, celebrates the advancements in communication currency.  I, too, am pleased that I can chat online and mobile phones (that are financing a civil war in the Democratic Republic of Congo) are more widespread than passable roads but I grieve the loss of travelers congregating in the common room with nothing to do until someone produces a pack of cards or, more likely, a box of wine.  

The wanderlust incest is still alive and evident as I bumped into a lifeguard from Bonnie Doon pool on Koh Pha Ngan the next bungalow over.  “Small world!” we exclaimed.  Boarding plane four of five to the other side of the world months later I’m reminded that the world, is in fact, still a very large place.  

Fifty-four hours from Bali to Calgary – the majority of those legs likely plagued by at least one colicky baby in the cabin.  WestJet’s timely April Fool’s joke of announcing child-free cabins was an outward expression of not only my mile-high and, if online forums are to be believed, many other travelers’ grievances.  My compliments to a girlfriend who drugs her children for air travel.  

While 15 hours of plane travel amounts to a considerable distance, the same cannot be said of non-air travel.  In the same hours required to cross the Pacific, Robyn and I traveled from Sabang, Mindoro to Sugar Beach on Negros and were still in the same country!  We took multiple boats, an airplane, a jeepney, a tricycle and numerous there’s-space-in-the-aisle buses.  

While I’ll likely be back in SE Asia – possibly as soon as this winter – I can’t prematurely predict the same for the Sharklab.  While the cast had changed from my previous stint in 2010, the spectacle had remained the same.  Collectively lured to Bimini by the possibility of a spectacle, the tears on the porch as I bid the stayers-ons farewell, were for the cast that had enriched my life.  I had arrived with the expectation of extraordinary experiences, and more than fulfilled, hummed Colin James’s “Just Came Back to say Goodbye” as I was driven to the airport to begin taking the long way home – where ever that is...

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Parting photos

Leaving sucks.  Whether from Bimini, Calgary, Chetwynd or Phuket.  While I've lamented the bittersweetness of returning to where you started it still stinks saying what is likely "see you never" amidst tears covered by sunglasses (a trick I learned entirely too late) to truly great friends.  

Farewells wished with good intentions to stay in touch, I'm at stopover 1 on The Long Way Home in Davenport, Iowa where my younger sister goes to uni.  I was truly impressed with the St. Paddy's show Kelly's down the road from her flat put on.  Outdoors tents housed local bands playing covers, green beer flowed from the copious and well-placed stalls while the generations of green-clad party goers danced through it all.  

Not unlike Red Deer, Davenport is a city.  An offensive, loud, bright city filled with cars, SUVs, motorbikes and all manner of tards driving them.  I long for motorbike-filled cities with no traffic lights, golf carts driven on the left side of the road, a skiff, a chicken  or even Bimini's party bus.  


  No bullsharks for the Italian film crew, but a pod of pelicans was interested in our bait and the scraps from the cleaning table.  

Shit Pit prep

 Some Sharklab be(a)sties

 
A wee nurse caught gillnetting

Working her up

The skiffs

Chris swimming from our boat to the Twin Vee with bait

 This is not a hammerhead but still a sizeable nurse

Jean preparing hammerhead bait

 
Sunset at the Beach Club

Leaving Morning sunrise

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Reel big cudda

 Sarah and Aaron had both landed multiple baracuddas before I brought a monster to the boat.  More than a meter long and barely containted in the bait box, mild chaos followed as former Lab Manager Sean failed to gaff, but sucessfully unhooked it in the trough in front of the engine. 

Sarah with her first.  Ever

Sean dehooking

What catching nothing for more than two hours looks like


My turn

Sean: Can someone drive this thing?
Me: Uh, yeah, no porblem
Sean (guestering away from shore): Just point it that way

Off that dock is money

We had an official measure and weigh off.  Mine was 106 cm and 13 pounds.  Sarah's was 102 cm and 13 pounds.  Hopefully these cuddas will net us future hammerheads. 

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Octoposses, painting and sunsets

Ocoposses are deployed nearly daily.  The exterior of the house is new colours.  Tower observations have taken on a new element of challenging.  SUR collection is great fun under water spouts.  Shark fishing continues with mixed results. 

 Octopus 1

 Day off on North

 Off Back Beach

 On the way to Shell Beach for sunset

 Hey, yacht with a 3 million dollar helipcopter, you're in the way!

 Jean, TJ and Mai-Britt on one of the towers

 Ravi with hairy SURs

Water spout over Bimini Bay

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Nurse shark wrangling, suprise turtle, rainday everything

 The weather continues to be shite with today's winds nearly fitting into category 1 hurricane parameters.  Anticipating incoming volunteers on the 15th, the cool northern winds blew us inside and we cleaned, bleached and aired out the lab, house for their arrival. 

We've been catching nurse sharks for Laruan's project, tracking in the North Sound, sitting on towers observing for Jean's project and gillnetting.  The day-to-day pace has relaxed as weather appropriate tasks are prepared.  

 
Lab Manager Jim with one of eight nurse sharks we "wrangled" 

 Turtle found under a ledge

Boat shot

 The boys with our catch 

 "This is a record day for me," Jim exclaimed

 Depth stick = tin can telephone

 Raining again

Jean's exploration pen
 
Setting, or hauling a gillnet int the Duck Pond

Across the road from the lab
 
Watch out!
Shell Beach at sunset

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Weathered out

"Remember, they're smart, have lots of arms and a powerful beak," lab manager Emily said as she dispatched five of us for Shitty Weather Activity Volume XXI: Octopus Catching. Long term volunteer TJ quickly offered that one of the last octopi scurried across the lab wall to evade capture. 

When the weather, namely the wind, dictates the Sharklab limit water-based excursions, an interesting arsenal of tasks emerge. Fix gillnets; find, wrangle and catch nurse sharks; perfect pens; train stingrays; catch bull sharks from the marinas on North Bimini; and most recently, catch octopus. 

"This is the first time it's been a task at the lab," Emily told us as we laughed in disbelief. 

Arriving at the potential - and in all likelyhood actual - octopus habitat off Shell Beach, we were greeted by the same rolly, wave-slamming seas that we were avoiding due to a small craft advisory. 

Striking out locating nevermind containing an octopus, we tried our luck at Big Game on the North Island for bull sharks.  Seasonal residents of Bimini's waters, they're quite common off the docks in the afternoon and especially during and after fish are cleaned.  Two were baited in off an amberjack carcass and recent spearfishing kills.  A 2.5 meter recap female was landed after everyone - myself included - on the workup boat was "Gruberized" by Doc.   

Alex looking under ledges

 
Tessa wondering where all the octopus are 

 Sarah and Ravi chilling between gillnet checks

 Working up the juveniles caught in the gillnets

Jim grabbed this juvenile nurse at the Sappona

There's a bull down there 
 
Bull alongside the boat 

View from the bow

 Underwater

 Released - not what you want to see when you're walking on the flats